Just like iPhones, iPads can also be tricky if you are not paying full attention during a repair. In our previous article, we discussed the most common mistakes when replacing an iPhone screen and how they can affect your store’s profits and reputation. This week, we are focusing on the small, yet crucial, aspects of fixing an iPad. See if you are making any of these mistakes, take notes, and stop wasting your time and money with unwanted comebacks!

Not Moving Original Tapes and Parts

One of the most frequently seen issues is not moving important parts such as original tapes from the damaged to the new part. This is especially common in models like the iPad Air 1 and the iPad Mini models.

Failure to Replace the LCD Perimeter Foam

On iPads with an air gap between the digitizer and the LCD, the tech must replace the LCD perimeter foam to prevent the digitizer from sagging into the LCD, creating an oil smear-like appearance and ghost touching.

Using the iPad 2 Bezel on iPad 3 or 4


Many online sellers sell the iPad 2 bezels as iPad 2,3,4. However, the iPad 2 has fully rounded corners, while the iPad 3 and 4 has a circle in each corner. Pay close attention when purchasing, and double check when the part arrives. 

Not Checking the Bezel Adhesive

The Bezel adhesive can come in two ways – one you peel off and attach to the bezel itself, the other is a reverse adhesive that sits inside the metal frame and is simpler to use. When in doubt, try purchasing the second option.

Not Paying Attention to Frame Damage

Fixing any iPad requires attention to details Be mindful of frame dents, dings, and twists since all of them can affect the way the device works.

A slight twist puts the LCD closer to the touch panel, and the natural static electricity on the LCD can be sensed in the touch panel causing touch issues, ghost touching, etc.

On newer iPads that are all full displays, you don’t have the same touch issues like older models with air gaps, as previously discussed. However, the frames are easier to bend especially on the iPad Pro models. When this happens, even if you bend the frame back as much as you can, eventually the device will fully fail.

When identifying a twisted or bent frame encourage the customer to replace the device as the logic board is mounted to the frame and the frame damage has extended to the logic board and will cause premature failure.

Being Careless with iPad 2, 3, and 4 Edges

In older models such as the ones mentioned, the edges and corners of the frame are soft and ding very easily, which can prevent a new digitizer from properly sitting in place. It’s possible to fix most of them or file them out so the device is still usable, but they will never be in perfect condition.

Pulled Out Pins on iPad Mini 1 and 2

The iPad Mini 1 and 2 are very prone to having pins pulled out of the digitizer socket because the connection is very tight, and when the flex is disconnected at an angle, it has a tendency to allow the pins to break off of the socket.

You can prevent this, and many other future issues, by disconnecting the flex evenly on the short sides of the cable.



Just like with any other repair, focus and organization are key in preventing small mistakes from happening. Organize your workstation properly prior to the repair, make a checklist before you begin to follow as you go on, and double check every component before closing the device. Fewer returns mean less wasted time, no wasted money on extra parts, and more 5-Star reviews on Yelp!

Looking for quality digitizers, LCDs and other iPad components? Shop at sourcely.com today and use our code IPAD10 to take 10% off all iPad digitizers and LCDs!

Do you have any suggestions of topics in the repair space you’d like us to cover? Do you think you have valuable information you’d like to share with the community? Send us an email at blog@sourcely.com with suggestions or be featured in our blog!

*Discount code expires February 15th at 11 PM (PT).

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